Stiffened fabric article and method of manufacture

ABSTRACT

Stiffened fabric articles useful as garment liners are provided, comprised of multi-constituent yarn elements unidirectionally combined therein in the direction of desired stiffness in said fabric article; said multi-constituent yarn elements being spun form at least two different polymeric materials whose melt temperatures differ by at least 10 degree C. such that, in a given element, a first fiber-forming polymeric material defines a matrix and a second higher melting polymeric material is dispersed therein in the form of discontinuous fibrils, said matrix comprising at least about 50 percent by weight of the element and having a lower melting point than said dispersed fibrils; and said fabric article having been heat-treated at a temperature in the range above the melting point of the matrix but below the melting point of the dispersed fibrils such that the desired unidirectional degree of stiffness is imparted thereto, and whereby fabric strength and appearance are retained. The multi-constituent yarn elements are present in the fabric as individual yarn or fill elements in combination with other materials, or are present in a mechanically blended fiber or yarn with other materials.

3,618,141 STIIFFENED FABRIC ARTICLE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE George H.Collingwood, Hopewell, and Gene C. Weedon and Robert C. Winclrlhofer,Richmond, Va., assignors to Allied Chemical Corporation, New York, N.Y.No Drawing. Continuation-impart of applications Ser. No. 727,325 andSer. No. 727,327, both May 7, 1968. This application Apr. 29, 1969, Ser.No. 820,331

lint. Cl. D03d 13/00, 15/02 US. Cl. 2236 12 Claims ABSTRACT OF THEDISCLOSURE Stiffened fabric articles useful as garment liners areprovided, comprised of multi-constituent yarn elements unidirectionallycombined therein in the direction of desired stiffness in said fabricarticle; said multi-constituent yarn elements being spun from at leasttwo different polymeric materials whose melt temperatures differ by atleast 10 C. such that, in a given element, a first fiberfor rningpolymeric material defines a matrix and a second higher meltingpolymeric material is dispersed therein in the form of discontinuousfibrils, said matrix comprising at least about 50 percent by weight ofthe element and having a lower melting point than said dispersedfibrils; and said fabric article having been heat'treated at atemperature in the range above the melting point of the matrix but belowthe melting point of the dis persed fibrils such that the desiredunidirectional degree of stiffness is imparted thereto, and wherebyfabric strength and appearance are retained. The multi-constituent yarnelements are present in the fabric as individual yarn or fill elementsin combination with other materials, or are present in a mechanicallyblended fiber or yarn with other materials.

PRIOR ART Stiffened fabrics have been produced for many years asillustrated by US. Pats. 2,298,071 and 2,754,855. They have been used toreinforce the shape of garments as in hatbands, waistbands, coats,dresses, upholstery, collars, cuffs, and many other articles.

Previously known stiffened fabrics have generally been produced byincorporating a stiff yarn or mono-filament therein. Because of its sizethe mono-filament is hard to handle in producing the fabric and tends toslip within the fabric structure, thereby producing a non-uniform fabricwithin a short time.

Resins or thermoplastics incorporated in fabrics to stiffen them havehandled easily enough during fabric production, but break down quicklywith wear and/or washing.

BACKGROUND This application is a continuation-impart of the followingcopending applications: (a) Ser. No. 727,327, filed May 7, 1968 forDimensionally Stable Articles and Method of Manufacture, and (b) Ser.No. 727,325 filed May 7, 1968 for Dimensionally Stable Articles andMethod of Making Same.

In the applications, articles are produced from multiconstituentfilament, which, as used herein means filament made by inclusion of atleast one polymeric material in a matrix of another as discontinuousfibrils, the two materials having melt temperatures at least 10 C. apartsuch that fibrous structures composed thereof can be heattreated byapplication of heat below the melt temperature of one and equal to orabove that of the other, the entire filament composition of anycomponent thereof optionally including any secondary material compatible3,fill8,ll4l Patented Nov. 9, 11971 with the heat-treating property ofthe fabric as a whole, such as anti-oxidants and other stabilizingagents, reinforcing particles, fillers, adhesion promoting agents,fluorescent materials, dispersing agents, and others useful inpolymerization, extruding, spinning, fabric forming and shaping,heat-treating and product finishing techniques. The preferredmulti-constituent filamentary material is prepared in accordance withTwilley, US. Pat. 3,369,057, and this patent is therefore incorporatedby reference as if fully set out herein.

In Ser. No. 727,327 cited above, it was disclosed that fabric made frommulti-constituent filaments could be heated under appropriate conditionsto produce novel articles of improved dimensional stability, havingimproved physical properties, yet retaining a fabric or tex.

tile appearance, even after heat-treating to a considerable degree. InSer. No. 727,325 it was disclosed that fabrics could be prepared frommulti-constituent materials, but could also include additional materialsinterwoven or otherwise combined therewith, including many varieties ofnatural fibers, modified natural fibers and synthetic fibers, and evenwith the addition of such other filamentary materials or yarn, thedimensional stability could be achieved and the textile appearanceretained within certain heat-treating conditions and with theappropriate amount of the multi-constituent material present.

SUMMARY AND OBJECTS This invention relates to novel fabric useful as astiffener material and made by inclusion of multi-constituent yarn orfibers therein in the direction in which stiffness is desired, andheat-treated to the desired degree of stiffness. As compared tomono-filaments, multi-constituent yarn may be handled as anyconventional yarn in weaving and may be the same approximate size as thewarp yarn. Moreover, the multi-constituent material is easy to cut andotherwise handle. Another advantage is that the multi-constituentmaterial used locks in the other yarn employed in the fabric during theheat-treating phase, thereby reducing or eliminating the possibility ofyarn slippage and fabric deformation during use. Still other advantagesare that the multi-constituent materials are relatively low in cost andtheir non-allergenic properties are excellent for purposes in whichstiffened fabrics are normally employed, as for example, waistbands introusers, stiffeners in shirt collars and the like where frequentwashing or dry cleaning is an important factor.

The principal object of the present invention is, therefore, to providenovel fabric articles which are stiffened by heat-treatment and whichinclude multi-constituent filamentary materials in the direction ofdesired stiffness, resulting in novel economies and novel properties ofstiffened fabrics. Other objects and advantages will be apparent tothose skilled in the art from the appended claims and the followingdescription of the best mode of carrying out the invention and examplesthereof.

DESCRIPTION Multi-constituent filaments are produced by combining atleast two different fiber forming polymeric materials, having meltingpoints at least 10 C. apart and preferably as much as 25 C. apart. Amajor amount of one of the materials is utilized as a matrix in whichthe other is dispersed. The preferred polymeric: materials are nylon 6(50-90 parts by weight) and polyethylene terephthalate (10-50 parts byweight). The precise nature of the materials and the preferred manner inwhich they are blended together are fully disclosed in the above citedTwilley patent and reliance on the disclosure made therein is made fordetails.

In addition to the Twilley multi-constituent materials, otherthermoplastic polymers and copolymers alone or in combination may beused such as polyamide, polysulfones, polyphenylene oxides,polycarbonates, and polyolefins, again with the matrix being present ina major amount and a higher melting dispersion being dispersed indiscontinuous fibrils therein, in accordance with the principlesdisclosed in the Twilley disclosure.

Polyesters and polyamides are preferably of the type disclosed in theTwilley patent. Other suitable polyamides are nylon 6/6(heXamethylene-diamine adipic acid), methanoland ethanol-solublepolyamide copolymers and other suitable polyamides such as the alkoxysubstituted polyamides. Suitable polyolefinic materials arepolyethylene, polypropylene, poly-l-butene, poly-2-butene,polyisobutylene, polystyrene and similar materials.

In fabric association with the multi-constituent yarn, as mentionedabove, a Wide variety of materials useful in producing fabric may beused, the only limiting criteria for selection of such a material beingthat it occur as, or may be processed into, a filament or yarn which isfurther capable of withstanding the temperature necessary to produce thedesired stiffness with the multi-constituent yarn being employed in thestructure of the fabric article, whether the fabric article be woven,knitted, or otherwise prepared. Such other materials which are suitableare natural fibers of animal origin such as wool, vegetable origin suchas cotton, flax, linen, hemp, jute, etc., and mineral origin such asasbestos, glass and spun glass. Modified fibers including cyanoethylatedcotton, mercerized cotton and non-shrinkable wool, as well as varioussynthetics may also be employed.

As an example of the best mode of carrying out the invention, a plainwoven fabric was prepared using a warp of 100% cotton (cotton count A)and filling of 100% of an 840 denier, 136 filament multi-constituentyarn containing 30% polyethylene terephthalate and 70% nylon 6. Thelatter was prepared according to Example -1 of the above-mentionedTwilley patent, i.e., the nylon 6 and polyethylene terephthalate wereheated and blended substantially homogeneously together, spun and drawn,resulting in the 840/136 yarn. The woven fabric was held under tensionon a frame and subjected to a temperature of 440 F. in an oven for aperiod of 30 seconds. The resulting fabric had a bending length of 10.0inches in the fill-wise direction and a length of 4.0 inches in thewarpwise direction. The length test used was the cantilever ASTM D1388-64 stiffness test. Briefly, it is the interaction between fabricweight and fabric stiffness as shown by the way in which a fabric bendsunder its own weight. A piece of the fabric thus produced was cut to thewidth of a hatband and inserted in the lining thereof where it servedsatisfactorily as a stiffener.

In most cases good stiffness will be achieved without seriouslyaffecting the pliability in the warp direction by heating a fabricconstructed as indicated above at temperatures ranging from 220 C. to260 C. for 5 to 60 seconds, preferably within the range of 230 C. to 2500., however.

In another example, a plain Woven fabric was prepared. The warp was l/ 6(worst count) spun polyester and the fill was the same, 840/136multi-constituent 30/70 polyethylene terephthalate, nylon 6. The fabricwas again mounted under tension on a frame, and subjected to atemperature of 440 F. for 30 seconds. The bending legnth, as determinedby the ASTM cantilever stiffness test, was 8.6 inches in the filldirection and 3.5 inches in the warp direction.

In still another example, a plain woven fabric was prepared using 8/1(cotton count) cotton in the warp direction and in the fill direction, 1pick of 840/136 multi-constituent yarn containing 30/70 percentages ofpolyethylene terephthalate and nylon 6 alternating with 1 pick of 8/1(cotton count) cotton. The fabric was mounted on a frame and held undertension 'while it was subjected to 440 F. for 30 seconds. Bendinglength, according to 4 the ASTM cantilever stiffness test was 3.2 inchesin the warp direction and 5.8 inches in the fill direction. Thestiffened fabric cut into a tape /8 inch thick in the fill direction canbe sewn into trousers between the lining and top of the trouser waistsection to function as a waistband.

In view of the above examples, variations in the stiffness are apparent,depending on the materials used, as well as the heat-treatment asmentioned above.

The stiffened fabric constructed in accordance with the above examplesare generally useful in any known application in which a stiffener waspreviously applied. They are particularly useful, however, in waistbandsfor trousers, lingerie, and foundation garments or in the manufacture ofshoes, blouses, collars and cuffs. An excellent degree of stiffness anda pleasing handle is achieved. In addition, the multi-constituentmaterial assures the fabric will have good stability to hot air curingand wet treatments, both in regard to dimensional stability andstiffness. Further advantages lie in the added resistance to abrasion towhich foundation pieces are often submitted and the lack of threadslippage.

The heat-treatment temperature for producing the stiffened fabric ofthis invention preferably is below that of the higher meltingdispersion, but above that of the lower melting matrix material wherebythe unique stiffening and/ or dimensional stability of themulti-constituent is achieved without destroying the strength of theyarn or its general yarn appearance. The temperature in the examplesgiven will be such that the matrix will soften and although it may notnecessarily bond to the warp yarn, there will be a certain amount ofattraction and fabric adaptation at cross-over points, and in someinstances, depending upon the amount of heat-treatment time, fusion willoccur. The temperature and extent of heat-treatment cannot be criticallydefined, except to the extent that heattreatment should be carried outfor a time sufficient to impart the desired amount of stiffness, but forless time that would cause excessive degradation of the yarn.

The invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departingfrom the essential characteristics thereof. The present embodiments aretherefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and notrestrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appendedclaims rather than by the foregoing description, and all changes whichcome within the meaning and range of equivalency of the claims aretherefore to be embraced therein.

We claim:

1. 1A fabric stiffener article comprised of rnulti-constituent yarnelements unidirectionally combined therein in the direction of desiredstiffness in said fabric article; said multi-constituent yarn elementsbeing spun from at least two different polymeric materials whose melttemperatures differ by at least 10 C. such that, in a given element, afirst fiber-forming polymeric material defines a matrix and a secondhigher melting polymeric material is dispersed therein in the form ofdiscontinuous fibrils, said matrix com-prising at least about 50 percentby weight of the element and having a lower melting point than saiddispersed fibrils; and said fabric article having been heattreated at atemperature in the range above the meltingpoint of the matrix but belowthe melting point of the dispersed fibrils such that the desiredunidirectional degree of stiffness is imparted thereto, and wherebyfabric strength and appearance are retained.

2. -A fabric article as defined in claim 1 which is of I wovenconstruction and wherein said multi-constituent yarn elements areinterwoven therein.

3. A woven fabric article as defined in claim 2 wherein 4. A wovenfabric article as defined in claim 3 wherein said multi-constituent yarnelements are comprised of a polyamide matrix and a polyester dispersion.

5. A woven fabric article as defined in claim 4 wherein said polyamideis nylon 6 and said polyester is polyethylene terephthalate.

6. A woven fabric article as defined in claim 2 wherein saidmulti-constituent yarn elements are interwoven in the weft direction.

7. A woven fabric article as defined in claim 6 and a pair of trousersin combination, said fabric being cut to the thickness of a waistband inthe weft direction and sewn in said trousers about the waist section.

8. A woven fabric article as defined in claim 7 wherein saidmulti-constituent yarn elements are comprised of 50-90 parts by Weightof a fabric forming polymeric matrix material and -50 parts by weight ofa higher melting micro-fibrillar dispersion therein.

9. A woven fabric article as defined in claim 8 wherein saidmulti-constituent yarn elements are comprised of a polyamide matrix anda polyester dispersion.

10. The method of manufacturing the fabric stiffener article as definedin claim 1, comprising:

(a) providing a fabric article comprised of multi-constituent yarnelements unidirectionally combined therein in the direction of desiredstiffness and spun from at least two different polymeric materials Whosemelt temperatures differ by at least 10 C. such that, in a givenelement, a first fiber-forming polymeric material defines a matrix and asecond higher melting polymeric material is dispersed therein in theform of discontinuous fibrils, said matrix comprising at least 50percent by weight of the element and having a lower melting point thansaid dispersed fibrils; and

(b) heat-treating said fabric article at a temperature in the rangeabove the melting point of the matrix but below the melting point of thedispersed fibrils such that the desired degree of unidirectionalstiffness is imparted thereto, and whereby fabric strength andappearance are retained.

11. A method as defined in claim 10 wherein said fabric is comprised ofmulti-constituent yarn elements comprised of a polyamide matrix andpolyester dispersion, and said fabric article is subjected totemperatures ranging from between 220 C. to 260 C.

12. A method as defined in claim 10 wherein said fabric is woven in amanner to incorporate the multi-constituent yarn elements in the weftdirection.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,298,071 10/1942 Smith 139-4203,099,067 7/1963 Merriam et al. 28-82 3,155,986 11/1964 Miller 2-2363,221,346 12/1965 Johnson et al. 2-236 3,348,993 10/ 1967 Sissons 161-81X 3,369,057 2/1968 Twilley 260-857 3,382,305 5/1968 Breen 264-171FOREIGN PATENTS 1,035,908 7/1966 Great Britain.

ROBERT F. BURNETT, Primary Examiner R. L. MAY, Assistant Examiner US.Cl. X.R..

